In some parts of American culture, November 11 (or 11/11) is thought to be a lucky day because of the repeated numbers. In Italian culture, November 11 is the feast day of San Martino — Saint Martin in English. Similar to Ottobrate Romane in Rome, this day marks the last set of days with an unseasonably warm and mild climate before the onset of the cold winter months. Explore the legend of San Martino and how the feast day is celebrated across Italy with knight-shaped cookies, roasted goose, chestnuts, vino novello, and more.
The Legend of San Martino
While serving as a Roman soldier, Martino met a poor man one night during his travels. Seeing that the man was freezing and had nothing to keep him warm, Martino cut his cloak in half and gave it to the man. That night, he dreamt of Christ wearing the other half of his cloak and, once he awoke, discovered his cloak had been restored. The sun broke through the clouds and shone so brightly that Martino couldn't suffer from the cold. Because of this, Martino proclaimed his Christian faith and would eventually become a saint.
Vino Novello: The Newest Wine of the Year
This time of year is seen as a closing point in agriculture. The crops have been harvested and good food is abundant. Vino Novello, or new wine, is often drunk in celebration. This special type of wine hits the market just a few weeks after the grapes have been harvested. This speedy turnaround is possible thanks to carbonic maceration, where whole clusters of grapes are placed into a sealed container that is filled with CO2. This oxygen-free environment allows for a rapid extraction of color without tannins. These wines are fruity, soft, and light in color and alcohol. Tradition says the first vino novello should be opened on the Feast Day of San Martino to mark the end of the farming season. This light-bodied wine pairs perfectly with many other signature treats to celebrate this autumnal holiday.
Feasts and Treats for San Martino
There are countless regional treats to celebrate San Martino. Starting with the islands, in Sicily, San Martino means enjoying viscottu or sammartini, fennel-flavored crunchy cookies that are soaked in sweet Moscato before eating. These treats can also be filled with sweet ricotta and dusted with powdered sugar. In Sardinia, look for crunchy raisin-studded, diamond-shaped cookies called papassinos that are also dusted with powdered sugar.
On the heel of the “Italian boot,” Martina Franca in Puglia celebrates their city’s patron saint with San Martino delle Sementi, locally Sammartène de le semmìnte, meaning “Saint Martin of the Seeds.” Both sacred and secular events are celebrated, including a large fair and fireworks, and butchers prepare plenty of brodo, porchetta, and capocollo for celebrating. In the wider Salento area, look for pittule, fried bites of dough stuffed with dried tomatoes, capers, anchovies, and pitted olives.
Further north in the more central part of Italy, Abruzzo has a unique treat called pizza coi quattrini, or “pizza with money.” Like holiday treats from other cultures, a coin is hidden in this crispy pizza, bringing good luck to whoever finds it in their piece. This crunchy and cross-hatched pizza scima, or “silly pizza” since it's made without yeast, is served with plenty of savory favorites, like roast sausages, cured meats, and hard cheeses.
Pizza di San Martino covers many unique treats across the country. In Molise in Abruzzo, this name is for an enriched bread similar to panettone studded with raisins and citrus zest. Across the way in Lazio, the same name is used for a simple long pizza (similar in shape to pizza alla pala) topped with only olive oil and black pepper, ideal for tasting with vino novello.
In Marche, expect grilled pork, roasted chestnuts, and vin brulée, or mulled wine, on the San Martino spread. In the north, goose will be the main dish in Friuli, Veneto, Lombardia, and Emilia-Romagna. In Alto Adige, speck or other smoked meats are added to a goose dish. Goose is especially associated with San Martino, as legend says that after he was elected the Bishop of Tours, he did not want to assume the position and tried to hide. The noisy geese scampering around the farm led the villagers straight to the cleric, obliging him to take the position.
Venice has a more family-focused celebration for San Martino. Children dressed in cloaks and crowns will march through the streets and squares chanting rhymes and banging on pots and pans. The children’s likely favorite part of this batter sanmartin, or “beat San Martin,” is asking shopkeepers for money or sweets. Traditionally, the money earned would be used to buy the most spectacular treat for San Martino: an ornately decorated cookie shaped like a knight on horseback with a sword. Bakeries top these short-crust pastry cookies with icing, candies, and chocolates, a sweet-studded heaven for the local children.
Whether you enjoy sweet or savory, there’s a perfect traditional San Martino treat. Celebrate this Italian feast for fall and add some fun to the season. Stop by your local Eataly, get local delivery, or order online to find some special treats for your Festa di San Martino!